Phnom Penh - Culinary Delights

Sovanna Restaurant, Phom Penh, Photo source: Google

There's a whole world of food waiting to be discovered in Phnom Penh's vast and eclectic array of restaurants.

Whether you want to splash the cash or save the dollars, visitors to the Cambodian capital will never be short of new foods to discover in this city where cultures collide.

Starting at the bottom in price, but certainly not in terms of exceptional value for money, are the many Cambodian BBQ places around the city. Favorites among the expatriate community include Pasteur on St 51, "54" on St 278 and Sovanna on St 21, where a three-course feast will set you back about $15 for two or three people with a pitcher of draught thrown in. These venues provide a glimpse of local life and opportunity to sample some unusual dishes, though you will benefit from taking a Khmer to help interpret as the staff often speak little English.

The riverfront is a good place to work out how far your money will go because not only is the view pleasant and breeze a refreshing bonus, but the prices range from cheap to mid-budget to high-end in a matter of meters. Here's a selection to whet your appetite.

Taqueria Corona is widely regarded as one of the capital's top Mexican restaurants. Set on St 51, this intimate eateries's menu boasts a total of 10 different meats to choose from, to be served in a choice of traditional Mexican styles, from burritos to tacos. Lone Pine, managed by the same owner, serves hearty portions of flavorful southern comfort food such as po' boys, ribs, chilli, steaks and gumbo in an eatery with the feel of a roadside diner.

FCC Phnom Penh, Photo Source: FCCCambodia.com

The FCC, with its relaxing views across the river, is on the high-end of the scale but well worth a visit, serving a delicious mix of South East Asian favorites, salads burgers, and wood-fired pizzas. As well as the second-floor balcony there's also a comfortable rooftop terrace option.

Further up the riverside strip you'll find Metro Hassakan and Chow, each offering affordable fine dining in classy surroundings. Chow's ever-changing menu, with organically selected products, has been expanded to include a selection of some of the finest Mediterranean dishes. metro, which transforms into a cocktail lounge at night, has a varied range of small and large plates to try, including specialties such as the strange sounding Khmer beef with red ants.

Riverhouse Bistro takes diners on a culinary adventure across continents, offering a fresh fusion of the finest dishes, such as Asian beef jerky, the Thai fusion fishcake and Moroccan mezze platter.

If you're a westerner seeking a taste of home, beautifully battered fish'n'chips is the idea behind Fish across the street from the Night Market. Be sure also to check out Fish & Co just a few doors down for some affordable and interesting lunch deals with its range of battered fish stuffed with different cheeses and flavors.

Lovers of all things Latin should visit the Latin Quarter on St 178, where a tantalizing selection of freshly prepared South American, Spanish and Italian dishes await you in a beautifully restored colonial building. Another south American favorite is Samba on Sothearos Blvd where high quality meats are prepared using a unique type of barbecue cooking call Churrasco, a tradition of Brazilian Gauchos. The all you can eat buffet is a must.

Ocean specializes in fresh seafood and as an interesting $9 set menu. Make sure you try the seafood spaghetti and the chocolate mousse with vanilla custard. The latest addition from Ocean is Ludwik Beergarden, which specializes in a range of German cuisine and Paulaner beer under the trees of an airy beergarden. La Marmite has been offering a taste of classic French since opening in 2001. The restaurant serves affordable daily specials as well as typical French cuisine. Manu the helpful owner is always on hand to help.

If it's red meat you're after then also head to one of the city's steak houses. A top place is Armand's, which is deservedly popular with steak aficionados.

There's also a long list of eateries where the staff are mostly former street kids learning a trade. These include Lotus Blanc, Friends and previously mentioned sister restaurant Romdeng, Hagar and Le Rit's, where the prices may be a bit higher but it's for good cause.

Then there are the high-end restaurants. These range from fine Cambodian cuisine at Malis on Norodom Blvd to a variety of French specialties. Also serving fine French cuisine is La Résidence, which offers a $15 three course lunch menu and is one of the classiest French-style restaurants in town. Set in a mansion boasting stunningly classical decor and well-manicured gardens, the St 214 restaurant is a truly sophisticated affair.

Indochine Bistro recently opened its doors in the tranquil Bassac garden, next to Sofitel. Their back rib served with fries is a hit with diners.

Lovers of cuisine from the land of the rising sun will find fine Japanese fare at Bekkan Ramen (St 334). Phnom Penh's original Ramen noodle house; it serves a number of authentic noodle and BBQ dishes from across Japan.

The Sushi Bar (St 302) has well and truly made a name for itself on the sushi scene, offering everything from bento sets and sashimi to grilled dishes and delicious sushi rolls. Alternatively, try Rahu (157 Sosowath Quay) for "fusion sushi Rahu style" together with an impressive range of hand-crafted cocktails.

Fans of Italian cuisine are spoilt for choice here in the capital. Luna has been serving excellent pasts and pizza in a beautiful garden setting for many years. Terrazza is an authentic and very promising Italian restaurant. Diners can enjoy simple cooked, fresh food with fine wine, and there's also a deli selling Italian produce. A latest addition to the roster of great Italian restaurants is Aperitivo. Don't miss out on the unique and superb pasta combination platters! Zino on St 294 is another Phnom Penh newbie and one of a string of wine bars to open recent months in the capital. Its variety of wine combined with top-notch Mediterranean menu has led to it receiving instant rave reviews from the expat community as well as tourists.

If it's fresh and healthy meat-free cuisine you're after then head to Vegos, which now has a second location on St 294 offering wraps, bagels and salads as well as a new range of rice and noodle dishes. Maru Shabu recently opened its door in the capital and offers a range of salads with over 40 ingredients, with chicken as additional option.

If it's tasty panini you're after, then the real deal is being served at Da Sandro Panini Bar. With Italian ciabatta and paninis with hight quality fillings imported from Italy on the menu, it has quickly become a firm favorite on the local restaurant scene. Dine in the Dark offers a totally different experience to diners. Enjoy meal with only your sense of taste and smell in total darkness. Three three-course option ($18) are available in Western, Khmer and vegetarian. Le Saint Malo is the first French-style seafood platter restaurant in the Kingdom. They offer lots of fresh fish, expertly prepared in their house specialties, but meat lovers fear not, there is plenty on the menu to satisfy your hunger.

Don't miss The Restore One Café, which is part of a training center for vulnerable women and does an amazing burger. East West Curry is a stalwart and popular with locals and expats.

Source: PocketguideCambodia

Phnom Penh - Restaurants at a glance

Bekkan Ramen (24A Street 334)
Phnom penh's first and most delicious ramen restaurant, Bekkan Ramen, has now been operating in the city for four straight years. The owner, Francis, honed his craft in the bustling heart of Tokyo before bringing his encyclopedic knowledge of Japanese ramen here for the people of Cambodia to enjoy. With traditional wooden panelling and Japanese décor, Bekkan Ramen provides a touch of Tokyo in Phnom Penh. Whether you want to pull up a stool at the stylish bar and enjoy one of the 25 foreign and international beers on offer with your meal, or find a table sample a variety of Bekkan Ramen's culinary delights with friends, you can't go wrong. Francis' savory gyoza and authentic shoyu are stand-out dishes that are not to be missed.

Caravan's Brasseries (68 Sihanouk Blvd)
There's no shortage of European fine dining in Phnom Penh, and Caravan's Brasserie is the cream of the crop. When you're ready for a break from cheap street eats, stroll on down to this sumptuous dining spot for a truly memorable gastronomic experience. Caravan's French-trained chef will tantalize your tastebuds with a cornucopia of delectable dishes. From creamy pasta to succulently grilled cuts of the finest meats, your continental cravings will be well and truly satisfied at this elegantly appointed restaurant. Your meal will be perfectly complemented by the sophisticated selection of European wines on their tastefully curated drinks menu. With a wonderful view of the Independence Monument-gorgeously lit up in the evening-there's nowhere better to enjoy a leisurely meal with rich food, fine wine, and great company than Caravan's.

Dot Grill: Lounge (8 Street 144)
For a fiery dining experience in Cambodia's capital you can't go past Dot Grill. Each day their chief carefully selects the finest ingredients and artfully marinates them with just the right balance of traditional Khmer herbs and spices. Your selection is made to order and cooked over and open grill before your eyes. This is not your backyard barbecue-your meal comes to your table beautifully presented on a large skewer, with a variety of dipping sauces for your delectation. With a range of traditional Khmer dishes and international barbecue favorites, Dot Grill is here to satisfy the pickiest of barbecue lovers. The riverside location and fun contemporary feel make Dot Grill the perfect place to dine with friends before exploring the nightlife Phnom Penh has on offer.

The Restore One Cafe (23 Street 123)
A burger-lover's heaven, Restore One Cafe's hearty menu packs a sizable punch. Their generous portions and deliciously designed dishes will have your salivating before the food even gets to your table. If hand-cut fries with a variety of tasty dipping sauces sounds like you (how could it not?), Restore One will not disappoint. On top of their fantastic menu, The Restore One Cafe's al fresco dining offers a welcome respite from the hustle and bustle of Phnom Penh's hectic streets. Get off the dusty road, pull up a seat in their leafy dining area, and sink your teeth into something special. The handy proximity to the Russian Market gives you the perfect excuse to take a break from bargain hunting before diving back into the fray.

Khmer Amok

Fish Amok, Photo source: Thecitykitchensf

It's tasty, typical and good enough to share with friends. Fish forms the basis of this national dish that's full of subtle, interesting flavors.

Cambodian food, for long the oft-forgotten poor relative of dishes promoted to national specialities by the Vietnamese and Thais, is enjoying something of the renaissance thank to top chefs in the kingdom. What makes it down as a must to eat and take home recipe is that its subtle flavors dance a jig in your mouth.

Amok, whatever made with fish or chicken, is a national dish whose derivation is as unfathomable as the people who created it. All we do know is that mok or amok in southeast Asian cooking refers to the process of steam-cooking in banana leaves. At its most classical the fish is heady mix of herbs, roots, spices and condiments native to Cambodia that combine to create a perfect smashed up paste that will make your head spin and your taste buds crave more.

This forms the foundation for the filleted fresh fish, chicken and beef that can be laid on top. The whole assemblage of ingredients is then transferred to an intricately made banana leaf parcel. Topped with a generous pouring of fresh coconut milk sprinkled with broken peanuts the parcel and its contents are then slow-cooked in a steamer for about 20 minutes. Sprinkled with another fine layer of coconut milk, thinly sliced kaffir leaves and, according to taste, slivers of red pepper your amok is ready to eat.

The fish version of this traditional recipe as this was the benchmark used by our researchers as they set out in the hunt for amok up and down the busy thoroughfares of Phnom Penh. The facing page is the result of their eating and digesting.

Phnom Penh - Get moving

Boasting an abundance of beaches, jungles, mountains, lakes and temples galore, Cambodia is a country just waiting to be explored

Whether it is the remote islands or the depths of the jungle, improved roads and transport link make discovering Cambodia easier than ever before. Travel is cheap and all major destinations are accessible by bus from Phnom Penh, with private and shared taxis also favorable options.

The temple town of Siem Reap is top on everyone's list. Buses leave Phnom Penh hourly between 6:30am and 2.30pm, with some afternoon services. Giant Ibis and Mekong Express are popular choices, offering wifi, and A/C. The journey takes between 5 and 8 hours and tickets start at about $10. A taxi take five hours and costs upward of $60. Night buses to Siem Reap with Giant Ibis depart at 11:00pm and takes about 6.5 hours.

Beach lovers should head south to Sihanoukvilele, especially the popular Otres beach and smattering of idyllic islands off the coast. Buses with faster minivans available, depart hourly and take between 3 and 6 hours. Tickets start at $5. Taxis cost about $50.

Nearby Kep and Kampot are sleepy neighboring towns offering a slice of tranquility. Kampot boasts a relaxing riverside setting while the even smaller town of Kep, which is 30 minutes away by bus, is a quiet seaside resort. Both are accessible by bus from Phnom Penh, which depart regularly between 7am and 2:45pm and take between 3 and 5 hours. Tickets start at $5. Taxis cost about $40.

The city of Battambang in the North West is also worth visiting. Buses depart hourly from Phnom Penh throughout the morning and take between 5 and 7 hours. Tickets cost upward of $10 and taxis cost about $70.

The jungle and mountains of Mondulkiri in the North East are starting to feature on tourists' radar and thanks to new roads, are accessible within a 6 to 7 hours bus journey or 5 hours taxi ride. Minibuses depart from Phnom Penh in the morning and cost $10. A taxi will cost about $80.

Most guesthouses can arrange transport, which includes shared taxis. This can mean a hair-raising journey with up to 4 people crammed in the back seat and 2 in the front. Taxi prices increase and availability decreases during public holidays.

Source: PocketGuideCambodia

Get Yourself Connected in Phnom Penh

Whether you are living here in Phnom Penh or just passing through, staying in touch with friends, family and business associates means getting online. Here is a brief overview of your options:

Fixed & Mobile Connections
There are many internet service providers in Phnom Penh. While there are several options that allow unlimited downloads, many set a download limit (500MB or 1GB are common) beyond which you will need to pay a surcharge for any extra bandwidth you use. Prices have continued to fall over the past year or so, though fixed connections are still fairly expensive compared to neighboring countries. Monthly charges vary from about $30 for a 1GB limit running at 1MB/s, with unlimited services now available from less than $80. Some ISPs like Emaxx Telecom offer inexpensive connection via USB dongles that you simply plug into your computer. Emaxx has bundled internet packages starting from $49/month with unlimited use, with a free USB dongle for mobile internet use.

Internet Café
There are still a few internet cafe across the city, with hourly charges typically running between 2,000 (50cents) and $1. You generally get what you pay for, so if you are looking for reasonable speed and scale. If you use a flash-drive or other portable memory system make sure you check it regularly for viruses - many internet cafes do not run adequate anti-virus software and the results can be devastating if you are not careful - instances of complete loss of data have been reported, so it's wise to take a few precautions. It's also a little risky to access your online bank accounts as there is an (admittedly limit) risk of your password detail being hacked if your connection is not secure.

Wifi Services
An increasing number hotels, guesthouses, restaurants and bars in Phnom Penh now offer WI-FI internet access, very often free or charge, though you may need to buy a card with a PIN number (usually about $1/hour). So if you have a laptop you can surf the web and e-mail your friends and associates in the comfort of your hotel room or while enjoying a drink at the bar.

Familiar Tastes in Phnom Penh

Dairy Queen in Phnom Penh International Airpot, Photo Soruce: Google

Khmer cuisine is a voyage of discovery, but sometimes all you really want is the comforting taste of home.

If chillis, fish sauce and endless bowls of rice are leaving you longing for something more familiar, one of the ever-growing number of Phnom Penh's international food chains is sure to tickle your tastebuds and satisfy your cravings.

There comes a time in every holiday when all you really want is a pizza. Or fried chicken. Or a coffee that isn't made with sweet milk and served in a plastic bag.

The good news is, international chains are popping up all over Phnom Penh.

Ideally located for when you arrive, Dairy Queen at the airport (now also on the riverside) has a wide menu of wraps, burgers, sundaes, juices and smoothies in a familiar environment.

BBQ Chicken is South Korea's answer to McDonald's with a bit of KFC thrown in. Menu choices range from sandwiches, burgers and salads to soups, steak and fish plus grill and barbecue specialties.

KFC has taken off in a big way in the Kingdom - all the fried chicken treats you'd expect from Colonel Sanders are available, although you may find the portion sizes a little smaller than back home and there's definitely more rice on the menu. There are various locations around the city.

Monthly promotions and free wi-fi access makes KFC specially popular with Cambodian youngsters, so you may have to wend your way through a shoal of motorbikes at the entrance.

New to the scene last year, and arguably the biggest name to come in so far, is Burger King, which opened its first ever outlet in Cambodia at Phnom Penh Airport in March 2013. There is a second outlet on Street 51 in the popular BKK1 area near Independence Monument.

If you need to chill, Swensen's (Sorya shopping center, Paragon Mall, Sovanna Mall and Pencil Supercenter) will satisfy your craving for cool with ice cream scoops and sundaes. The Earthquake Sundae is an eating challenge, while the Sticky Chewy Choc Fantasy does exactly what it says on the tin.

For a much healthier but equally delicious option, Tutti Frutti (136St 41 and 321 Sosowath Quay) provides a selection of their best-selling frozen yoghurt flavors (15c per 10g), with a choice of topping from fruit and nuts to chocolate and sweeties. Simply serve yourself, weight and pay!

Sarpino's (91-93 Northbridge, 89 Norodom, 124 St 169, 2016-218 Mao Tse Tung Bvd) is a Canadian pizzeria offering variety and fresh ingredients to give customers a 'truely Italian Experience'. The ambience is more wipe-clean than romantic nook. For those days when you just don't want to move, there's also a delivery service

The Pizza Company (Sorya Shopping Center, 39 St 105, St 261) has the standard selection of pasta, pizzas, salads and appetizers which are 'flavored to excited'. Look out for Asian tastebud treats such as Tom Yum Kung pizza topping (chilli pasted, prawns, calamari and mushroom) and Tropical Seafood.

2015 also welcomes to American pizza chain, Domino's Pizza, which already has over 8,000 restaurants worldwide. Sure to have a huge impact on the local pizza scene it's going to be a favorite to grap a slice.

For coffee fix there's an abundance of places in the capital. Australian brand Gloria Jeans (St 51) is a popular favorite. The relaxed air-con interior and wifi means you can settle in for the afternoon or take in the street from the outside seating area. Their second branch is coming soon to the riverside at Sisowath Quay.

One of the newest arrival in town, Costa Coffee is part of the UK's most popular coffee chain, which was founded in London in 1971. Here you can sip the ultimate handcrafted cappuccino and enjoy a blueberry muffin on the side. Since opening its door in December 2012 in BKK1, a string of other branches have followed suit with more outlets are expected to open this year.

Another café claiming to serve the perfect cappuccino is The Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf in Phnom Penh Tower and on Monivong Blvd. They also have a selection of cafe favorites in the menu to choose from.

Sunrise Tacos on Street 63 serves up a delicious range of Mexican favorites, such as tacos, quesadilla, burrito, margarita and more. Not included in the menu is an endless set of self-serving salsas. Sunrise Tacos also boasts super fast service.

Source: PocketGuideCambodia

Phnom Penh - Bag a bargain

Sorya Shopping Center, Phnom Penh, Cambodia - Photo source: YourPhnomPenh

The buzz and mayhem of the city's covered markets are what makes Phnom Penh a mecca for shopaholics.

Phnom Penh has been for many years a shopper's paradise where bargains have to be fought over and, in the majority of cases, locally made means put together round the corner, but beware of imitations.

Psa Tmei, Phnom Penh - Photo source: Jotravelguide

The most dominant of the capital's market places is Psa Tmei, the Central Market. Prio to 1935 the area was swamp called Beng Decho, which was prone to flooding during the rainy season. The lake was drained and construction of what is now a market designed by Jean Desbois and engineered by Louis Chauchon began in 1935.

As a landmark in the Kingdom of Wonder it gradually became more and more scruffy over the years and the capital's city fathers welcomed and offer by the French Development Agency to return the site to its former, pristine glory. The work was pretty well finished in 2011 and the stallholders returned to continue flogging their fare - although the rental of their sites has gone up and their prices has risen accordingly.

Not that many people complain as they haggle over handi. After all, what would a trip to Cambodia be without a scarf or three in different colors and either lovingly made with pure silk or cotton? Souvenir T-shirts, too, are a must-buy from simple designs with the Khmer alphabet and flag to Tin-Tin and imagery of Angkor Wat. On the so-called craft stalls it's still possible to buy handcrafted pagodas, Buddhas and other souvenirs.

The central area is a wonder of design and engineer with a domed core and four wings radiating outwards. Under the cupola, watches, precious and semi-precious stones, gold and silver jewelry dominate accompanied by lines of stallholders selling clothing for Khmer tots, teens and twenty somethings to barangs looking for presents for themselves or loved ones. Its outside stalls have been transformed from rag-tag collection of haphazard areas specializing in everything from clothing to cooking utensils, electrical goods to fresh sea fish and crustaceans to a more ordered assemblage of product areas.

Rumors have been circulation for some time that the road around the market and several of the feeder streets to its core will in the future be pedestrianized. Earlier interviews suggested that many stallholders were going to move to the markets where the rent was less steep, though the market is still busy and recent enquiries have painted a very different and more encouraging picture.

A relatively recent addition to the capital's markets is a stone's throw from the Sorya Shopping Center and called, inevitably, the Golden Sorya Mall. Originally focused on shoes and clothing for the ever fashion-conscious Khmer youth, it has undergone a transformation over the last year or so, and the majority of the space is now given over to bars and restaurants, many of which are open until very late at night.

There have been few changes at the Russian Market since the movement of the many and scruffy outside stalls, except for the several merchants who have adorned their promise with fancy signage. Famous for its Aladdin's cave of bootleg software, CDs and DVDs, plus just about everything a budding yuppie would want to be seen with, it's steamy, clammy rabbit warren of colors and noise reminiscent of an Arabian souk. Its popularity, though, has enlivened the streets radiating off its four sides where bars, bistros and restaurants, ice-cream shops and snackeries have reached out to the mostly heat-exhausted shoppers.

Orussey is another reliable standby with a vast selection of dry bulk foods, fruit, vegetables, fish and cut flowers in addition to kramas, T-shirts, sneakers, underwear and household electronic goods. If you fancy getting sweaty while bagging yourself a bargain, then head straight for there.

Alternative markets include Psa Chas, which offers a wide range of fruit, and Olympic, a predominantly wholesale market which has among other items wholesale fabrics of all hues and designs by the mile. Boeung Keng Kang market, at the southern end of Street 57 where it intersects with Street 380, has a wide range of second hand clothes at cheap prices, with T-shirts available for just a dollar or less.

Aeon Mall is the latest entrant to the market and brings with it a whole new shopping experience in the form of an international-standard shopping mall.